Hi-End Luxe

My b/f Brian recently marked his last day of work as a paralegal at his law firm, as he left to start law school (his first day was today). Working among others in the law professions who have a taste for wine (argh, let's not even talk about our 4+ bottle evening last week with one of the associates from his firm at Cesar -- where the son of yet another colleague works), he scored big time with his going-away gifts. His paralegal colleague gave him a bottle of 1999 Dom Perignon, while the firm as a group gifted him with the 2004 Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve Cab. Both are bottles worth $100+, leading me to suggest that now that he lacks any income maybe he should sell them on eBay!

But no dice. Tonight we're enjoying the Dom, which is much more toasty, creamy and complex than any other Champagne or sparkling wine I've had. I tried to convince Brian to wait to open it until we made the perfect meal to go with it, but he'd waited long enough in his book and was considering taking it boating up north (home to Mt. Shasta ) during the upcoming Labor Day weekend, so I guess tonight with a hodge-podge Mexican-themed meal was better than trying to drink it warmed by hot weather in plastic cups!

So we're celebrating the start of his stint at USF's law school and my new tasting room job at JC Cellars (just working a couple days a month), home of rich Syrahs, complex Zins, and interesting Rhone white varietals. Despite not making a proper meal to enjoy the wine, I think I'm going to go try out a white nectarine with it for dessert!

We're holding on to that Cab much longer, though.

Forgive me, I'm a Zinner

To celebrate the birthdays of me & the B (all of 3 days apart, same year, Leos, makes for interesting times...), we went up to Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma the other weekend with our Sac buddies Alysia & Josh. Despite having a wine fridge and wine racks at capacity, baskets full of bottles, etc., I did it -- I Zinned. That is, I bought a lot of yummy Zinfandel. But hey, it was from a region famed for the grape, a true red-blooded, good ol' American varietal (well, technically it has roots in Italy [Primativo] and Croatia [Plavac] but I think we've refined it enough to call it ours) that came darn close to being California's official wine grape.

First stop after a long, traffic-jam filled drive was Dry Creek General Store to pick up some sammiches as fortification for the round of wineries we were to hit, so we took them to go in order to make our appointment at A. Rafanelli, hollowed ground for Zin fans "in the know." The first time I heard of this place was nearly a year ago from a waiter at Levende East, a fabulous restaurant/bar in Old Oakland. They didn't have the A. Raf on their wine list (good luck finding it many places outside the winery in general) but he urged us to visit the winery and sample their wares. The winery is surrounded by gorgeous vineyard-covered hills and a lack of signage makes visitors feel they're sneaking in to this appointment-only, family-run business. Two other couples were tasting when we arrived, a German Shepherd was sacked out in his doggie-bed, and one of the Rafanelli daughters was pouring the family's Zin, Merlot & Cab. The '06 Zin was the true standout, of course, with lively jammy and spice flavors and smooth tannins that will only get more velvety with time (hopefully I can hold on to my 4 bottles for awhile).

Then it was off to Preston where we ate under the picnic tables among the winery's many cats and fruit trees and then ventured into the tasting room, in search of their single-varietal Cinsault that sold out last year by the time I got there. Alas, the '06 Cinsault had sold out AN HOUR before we got there. Talk about bad timing for me. I was bummed, and despite the charming farmhouse and relaxed vibe, nothing tasted good enough to buy after that disappointment. Our "partners-in-wine" Alysia & Josh picked up a bottle of the L. Preston, a GSM blend that I purchased last time I was there (but wasn't wowed by when I got around to opening it at home).

Next stop was David Coffaro, one of my faves for his "little bit of this, little bit of that" blends. The first time I had his wine was a few years ago at the house of my parents' neighbors (who also happen to be my mom's bosses -- hey, I'm from a small town!). After requesting Carignane (not that a wild of a gander after seeing Peter's cellar!) we tried a Ridge Buchignani Carignane (can't remember the vintage) that was tasty, but not fruit-forward enough for my taste, then opened Coffaro's Carignane (probably the '03), which resonated far better with my palate. At Coffaro, amid a very casual tasting scene, complete with Raiders paraphernalia all about and Scorsese's Stones documentary "Shine a Light" projected onto a big screen amongst the barrels, we sampled the '05 sale offerings and went home with an '05 My Zin, '06 Carignane (of course), and the '06 Terre Melange, a tasty, earthy blend of the southern Rhone reds.

The collection of "family" wineries off Dry Creek Road beckoned next, and we first hit Papapietro, maker of lovely (although pricey) Pinot Noirs and, even better in my (excuse-the-pun) book, the just released volume of Wine Dogs USA! I left here with a $50 bottle of '06 Leras Vineyards Pinot and the $40 doggie book -- not the cheapest stop, but well worth it for the pages upon pages of cute canine mugs. Then we went to Peterson, which makes such a bevy of different wines that you're sure to find something for everyone. Indeed we did, snapping up the '05 Tradizionale Zin, the '05 Bradford Mtn. Zin, and the '05 Sangiovese. The Tradizionale was the smooth, supple Zin while the Bradford Mountain had the spice & sass.

We found the same variations of Zin in our last stop, Mazzocco (not a planned stop but settled upon by looking at Wine Country magazine for which nearby tasting rooms were still open!), which had gorgeous floor-to-ceiling windows in a tasteful wooden, barn-like building. The '05 West Dry Creek Zin (91 points from Wine Spectator), was laden with super-ripe fruit, spice and cacao, while the '06 Sonoma Coast was the peppery one here -- both were purchased and we were off to dinner.

Our last stop in Sonoma Co. was at The Girl & the Fig for a scrumptious birthday dinner full of all kinds of proteins & veggies, but since this post is running waaaay long I'll just mention that what did the restaurant have on their wine list but the '06 Preston Cinsault! Score one for the birthday girl... :-)

Bubbly on the High Seas

Poor li'l blog, how I've been neglecting you so... I'll write more about my "adventures in wine" soon (have a birthday Dry Creek Valley trip coming up, hooray!), but for now I'll infuse this page with some techno, which has been sorely missing.

This Sunday is a Sunset boat party, which should -- as it always is -- be a blast. Debauchery in the high seas in the form of house & techno music (the legendary John Tejada joins the crew this time) and lots of booze flowing. I'll be sipping bubbly (Mumm Cuvee Napa Brut Prestige Champagne), which usually runs out, as everyone is in a decadent party mood when crusing the bay waters and taking in the lovely, twinkling skyline of SF.


Another super party wine is Periscope Cellars' little bottles of '06 rosé (a blend of Cab, Barbera, Syrah & Sangiovese grapes in Brendan Eliason's madcap "throw-in-a-little-of-everything" style that he learned while apprenticing with the original mad scientist David Coffaro in Dry Creek Valley). Unlike the dry -- and often rather tasteless -- rosés that are all the rage -- Periscope's is a bit fruitier and earthier and could almost be mistaken for a regular light red if one sipped with their eyes closed. Enjoyed a couple of these little guys at the Sunset park party last month, rockin' out to house grooves by longtime djs Halo and Hipp-e.

Too bad the security on the boat doles out such thorough searches, or I'd bring some of the mini-rosé with me for when the bubbles dry up!


After the boat there's an after-party at Vessel, one of the swankiest clubs in SF, although it feels too Vegas or L.A. for my taste, at least on weekends. The place is gorgeous, though, and they serve some good vino (for example, Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris) in nice stemware (both counts big rarities for clubland). Just be careful not to swirl the wine out of your glass while on the dancefloor!

Tasting in the sticks -- with the hicks

In an effort to hit all California wine-growing regions, I've branched out in my tasting adventures, going to Lodi and Amador County recently. (OK, full disclosure, I've actually been to both of those regions tasting before -- what can I say, I'm a small town girl!) While some of the company you may keep at the tasting rooms and festivals is a bit, er, interesting (the b/f almost had to fight a drunken redneck who was barging onto our shuttle bus at last year's Lodi ZinFest) there are some flashes of brilliance to be discovered in those regions.

We hit Lodi on a rainy Saturday, meeting up with friends from Sacramento at Michael David Winery. At first we were charmed by its country store appearance, but then we saw the mobbed tasting area in the corner of the room, crowded with people more interested in the plentiful nibbles than the beverages but who, quite possibly, knew more about wine than the workers behind the bar... Michael David had been my group's favorite from ZinFest the previous year, but that day the only two that impressed us out of a long lineup were the Incognito Pink (a rosé made of old vine Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvedre) and Petite Petit, a blend with honest to Betsy the cutest label ya ever did see (am I talking like a hick yet?) that they give this clever description: "Our carnivalistic blend of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot is definitely the star of the show. Trunk fulls of blueberry, plum, violet and chalky tannins give a seamless finish to this jumbo-sized offering." Elephant label aside, it is a big wine worth seeking out (the winery finally has an online shop).

Continuing with the animal theme, a couple other wineries in Lodi worth stopping by are d'Art, a labor of love from a married couple and their two mutts (one shy, one friendly) who roam the winery, and m2, a partnership between two friends with a very low-key industrial tasting room enhanced by two rambunctious Sealy terriers. At d'art we fell in love with the Cabs, both the '05 and '06 rocked our socks with their peppery but smooth flavor and finish. At m2 we purchased their yet-to-be-labeled '07 Viognier, which had a floral bouquet and flavors of apricots and honey, and well as the '06 Duality, a blend of Petite Sirah and Syrah with aromas of dark black fruit, coffee and cocoa.

Amador County, along with neighboring El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, has got to be some of the loveliest grape-growing country I have seen, with leafed-out vineyards covering its hills and picturesque red barns providing eye-catching contrast. In Amador we hit Sobon Estates, their sister winery Shenandoah, Cooper Vineyards, and Renwood Winery. Let's just deal with Renwood first. Beautiful tasting room with lots of celebrity schwag off what can only be dubbed a wine-themed boutique, invitingly landscaped grounds, but pushy staff (HOW many times can you mention the wine club???) and over-priced wines. See ya.

Cooper was my standout winery from my last visit there in early November (during which I battled an army of fruit flies), but alas, their stellar Sangiovese was sold out. I consoled myself by sitting in their colorful chair collection on the front porch and settling with the silky '04 Merlot (which I'm pretty sure I bought last time -- and have since consumed) and the jammy '06 Barbera. We picked up the '06 ReZerve Zin and the creamy, luscious '06 ReZerve White Port made from Viognier and Marsanne at Sobon, then headed to Shenandoah where a lighter-style, peppery '05 Cab was the standout and we couldn't resist the '07 Orange AND Black Muscat. We were surprised -- we hardly ever drink, let alone BUY dessert wines, but Amador seems to have a knack for producing some delicious ones.

Don't let it be said you can't learn anything in the country...

Warm weather & wine

I came home this week twice to find that three bottles in my wine rack had leaked due to the intense heat wave that hit the Bay Area recently. The telltale crimson drops on the linoleum had me frowning since two of the bottles were pretty nice ones I had been looking forward to drinking -- the'04 Mariner from Dry Creek Vineyards and the '06 Cab Franc from Irish Monkey Cellars. So once the weather cooled off enough Friday night we drank them with friends on our back patio for fear they would oxidize if we waited to consume them. The Mariner (46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot)was especially good, a smooth and rich blend that featured prominent berry flavors but was well balanced.

The temperatures of 90+ degrees coincided nicely, however, with an Albariño tasting I went to in San Francisco on Wednesday, given that grape's tendency to produce very refreshing, high-acidity wines that are just what one craves when trying to beat the heat. The Jug Shop put on the event, which featured about 10 reps from importers/distributors at B44 in the charming Belden Place alley in SF. There was a wide variety of styles of Albariño at the event, including some that had spent a bit of time in oak, producing a much rounder wine, but not a style I particularly cared for.


My favorites were (naturally), the two that aren't available in California. The '07 Don Pedro Soutomaior from Adegas Galegas was fresh, lively and zesty with grapefruit on the nose. It was also slightly fizzy, reminding me of how the grape tastes when it's in the form of the Portugese Vinho Verde. The '07 Fulget from Maior de Mendoza was also slightly effervescent, with crisp citrus characteristics and a slight tartness on the finish.




My favorite bottle that is available in CA was 2007 Laxas from Bodega As Laxas, which featured peachy notes and had a clean flavor with wonderful acidity and a medium finish. I had a great time sipping on many "tastes" of the Laxas while talking to Luis, who works for the importer Viños Unico. Given my recent trip, we chatted about his native Cuba as well as the wines he's providing to two soon-to-open spots in Alameda, BarCeluna (which is re-opening) and a Alameda Wine Co., a combo wine bar/retail shop adjacent to the renovated theater. Finally, I won't have to leave the island to go to a wine bar!

A break

No, I didn't disappear forever from the world o' wine... I did take a break, although that wasn't due to a vanishing taste for the juice, but rather since I was outside the realm of good wine for awhile, in Mexico and Cuba for 2 weeks. Sure, it's possible to find wine there, but with the exception of a "welcome-back-to-decent-food" dinner in Cancun where we splurged on a ridiculously overpriced bottle of Italian wine -- La Segreta Rossa (60% Nero d’Avola, 20% Merlot, 20% Syrah), a decent $15ish bottle that was one of the cheapest bottles they had, even with a markup to $60! -- we were vino-free for two weeks. Wow, longest spell in quite a few years.

Oh sure, we saw some Spanish, Argentinian and Chilean wine in some Cuban restaurants, but we couldn't be sure it was stored right in the tropical heat. Besides, 85+ degree days couples with 85%+ humidity doesn't really get the wine jonsening going. I was pretty happy with mojitos (although I was disappointed they weren't as good -- but about 1/3 of the price! -- as the ones you can get at Forbidden Island in Alameda or the Prado in San Diego's Balboa park) and the local Cuban beer, Bucanero and Cristal.

But now I'm back and was sad to come home and eye a partially empty wine rack. Alas, I've got to stop hemorrhaging money on wine, though, so today I stopped by Trader Joe's to take a chance at some of their cheapies. I was lured there by the mention of Red Flyer on the store's Fearless Flyer -- a $2.99 blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, Carignane, and Durif (aka Petite Sirah) made for TJ's by Hahn Estates in Monterey County. Being a Rhone fan I figured, even for the rock-bottom price, you can't really screw up a blend of those grapes too bad. Tonight I was surprised at its inky color as I poured it into the decanter for a half-hour or so, and then was impressed by its candied fruit nose, rich flavor with the musty earthiness I expect from a Rhone blend, a nice, round mouthfeel and (now) a smooth finish (at first it had a slightly sharp, chemical aftertaste, but that has subsided). I would have been happy to pay $8.99 for this wine! Hmmm, wonder how much my local TJ's has left...

I also picked up a $4.99 bottle of Gravity Hills Zin from Paso that I am holding out hopes for. Maybe it's time to start giving the uber-cheapies a chance!

Stayin in the 'hood...

Went to the East Bay Vintners Urban Wine Trail Passport event today and was wowed by the Meritage and Cab Franc from Irish Monkey and refreshed by Two Mile's Viognier. Prophetically, the two were located together, in Irish Monkey's HQ on 22nd Ave. in the O, just a hop, jump & skip from my house. The brickhouse HQ had the spread, too, featuring scrum-diddily-umptious cheese from Farmstead, a folk string instrument quartet, and the best vibe of all of the 8 locations of the day. The Meritage was a smoky, earthy, rich blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot & a couple "secrets" -- the standout red of the day, IMHO. The Cab Franc on its own was delish as well, with much pepper on the nose, but not the green flavors that sometimes accompany the varietal. Two Mile's Viognier was a lovely change from the red-heavy event, showing off peachy notes with the right amount of acid that begged for a well-crafted seafood dish.

We showed up at Eno in Berkeley to see winemaker Sasha drinking beer -- hey, doesn't every good harvest entail much beer consumption? His Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir was divine, with some cherry and pepper on the nose and smooth silkiness going down, pairing quite nice with the duck raviolis & spinach-and-mushroom frittata on the sunny patio out back.

Tonight is the daddy of all techno monthlies, [KONTROL], with Berlin standouts Pan Pot and local hero Clint Stewart. Caught Clint a few weeks ago at a day party in Golden Gate Park. Despite being severely incapacitated from shenanigans the night before, this guy threw down with a vengeance, making club kids everywhere proud. You can catch him and many others tomorrow, at Oasis, for the free Q, which is serving up gratis BBQ & beats from 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. This place has the best sound and best dancefloor (glide along the smooth concrete) for miles around, so come on down, yo.